Our Review Of Legado: Nieves Barragán Mohacho's Stunning Spanish Restaurant In Shoreditch

An unsuspecting Shoreditch new build is getting a culinary glow-up. The rebirth of Thai spot Singburi is blossoming, but it’s beside, under tall, grey arches, where you’ll find chef Nieves Barragán Mohacho, the visionary behind Mayfair’s Michelin-starred Sabor, bringing the taste of Spain with her latest venture, Legado.

Chef Nieves Barragán Mohacho at work in the kitchen (pictured right).

DesignMyNight's Review Of Legado In Shoreditch 

Taking inspiration from her Basque childhood and drawing upon beloved dishes throughout her London career, the space is a relaxed place to dine, sucking you out of the clamorous city rhythm and bleak drizzle via a buzzy taberna and into splashes of forest green, earthy terracotta and deep walnut woods.

Upon entry, I was met with an open-air kitchen, fronting two wood-fired ovens roasting suckling pig. It was all hands on deck, with Nieves herself at its heart, and I could feel waves of heat coming from the work stations, inadvertently shifting the climate of the room to a soft heat, perfect for sipping sangria in.

However, my friend and I’s long lunch began with Legado’s signature ‘3-sip serves’ (£6 each): dinky, low alcohol cocktails served in gorgeous ceramic cups, designed to awaken your palate and keep you company as you browsed an expansive menu. I went for the tomato and gin, a savoury option that tasted almost sun-dried and a little herbaceous, while my friend opted for the peach and vermut, a contrasting fruity appetiser.

Quisquillas de Cádiz (pictured left) and the Legado sandwich (right). 

There was a lot to choose from when it came to food, with the starters boasting a mighty nine options. Unmissable were the quisquillas de Cádiz (£25), a plate of prawns, served raw, apart from their delicately fried heads. These were served on a bed of citrus, sesame and soy, split with a coriander-infused Arbequina olive oil, a moreishly refreshing dressing that drew out the sweetness of the crustaceans.

The piquillo goat's cheese tempura (£9 each) was another hit. The deep, golden batter flaked away in your mouth, carrying molten, tangy cheese, emphasised by a kick of smoky pepper. The fact that the serving size was only one must’ve been for the greater good of diners' arteries, as I could’ve munched on a whole basket of these had it been presented to me.

Another must-order was the Legado sandwich (£12). Inspired by the snacks Nieves’ grandmother would make, it consisted of ‘bread’ made from Swiss chard, coated in panko crumbs, and deep-fried before being stuffed with air-dried beef and smoked cheese. If it was evident in the list of ingredients, it sure was in the pools of cheese that oozed out of the triangular-cut sandwiches' sides - this was a naughty snack, and the type I would’ve wolfed down in my youth and was more than happy to today.

Skate wing tortilla (pictured left), and arroz campero with lagarto Señorio de Montanera (right).

A richer, more complex favourite was the arroz campero with lagarto Señorio de Montanera (£24), which was rice, a dish that Nieves is well-known for perfecting, simmered in a savoury stock, rich with mushroom and kombu, balanced with the natural sweetness of lagarto ibérico, a tender cut from between the ribs and loin that tasted quite lean, effortlessly fell apart and paired well with the al dente texture of the rice and its umami-packed sauce.

Another classic of hers was the skate wing tortilla with mojo verde (£22), which was oh-so fluffy and fresh, and for good measure, we ordered the chicory, anchovy dressing and Manchego (£13) side salad, which was salty perfection and one way of getting a little greenery in.

Most vegetable dishes came with an element of meat, making it not-so plant-based friendly, though if you were a vegetarian visiting a restaurant where its hero dish was the quarter Segovian suckling pig, of which you could see staring at you from the corner of the kitchen, you might consider yourself to be in the wrong place.

If you do, however, fancy a dish that’s not so red meat heavy but still satisfies your inner carnivore, I recommend the Basque Garat 90-day chicken steak (£28) - the crispy skin is a melt-in-your-mouth marvel.

Saffron ice cream with white chocolate mousse, and Arbequina olive oil (pictured left).

While it might seem impossible with such tempting dishes to choose from, dessert is definitely worth saving room for. A showstopper in its own right was the saffron ice cream with white chocolate mousse, and Arbequina olive oil (£13). Gosh. Light and airy, sweet and salty, it was everything you could’ve possibly wanted from an end to a meal that didn’t overpower everything you’d just inhaled.

I left incredibly content, noting Legado as an absolute triumph, exploring Spain’s culinary diversity curiously and putting its lesser-sung plates at the forefront. I’m very excited to see what’s next for Nieves and her legacy.

Overall: Legado

I had a fantastic lunch at Legado; the space felt trendy, full of life and incredibly welcoming. It was a breath of fresh air to see a new opening so buzzing on a Thursday lunchtime, and I was truly blown away by how delicious everything was. Of course, I had high hopes given Nieves’ culinary footprint since her days at Barrafina and winning a Michelin star for Sabor in 2018, but this restaurant offered something new and exciting that London definitely has room for.

For more, discover the best Spanish restaurants in London.