I adore brunch, if I had the funds, I would quit my job and become a full-time brunch eater, rolling myself from venue to venue with fistfuls of streaky bacon and snatching orange juice cartons from passing children's hands, but even I can become a little bored of the same old eggs royale. Fortunately, the breakfasting phenomenon has traversed the corners of the world and come back with a whole bounty of cultures and food types to add to our weekend morning repertoire. Cinnamon Soho is one such place, offering tantalisingly good Indian plates and bottomless bubbles from midday on a Sunday.
It takes a lot to get me out of bed on the weekend, especially when the previous night was spent ordering vodka sodas on the old contactless but Cinnamon Soho’s reputation is enough to make any hungover soul spring from the sheets. From the man behind the acclaimed Cinnamon Kitchen and Cinnamon Bazaar, the Soho spot is Vivek Singh’s third opening and promises the same modern take on Indian street food, polished and repackaged for Londoners’ tastes.
Despite being slap bang in the middle of tourist town, the restaurant avoids the queues and crowds with an entrance hidden just outside of the main Kingly Court square. Interiors are a cool take on the simplicity of an Indian chai restaurant, walls are marble-like and painted in salmon pink, a bright red tandem bike hangs on the wall and bare-bulb lights drip from industrial poles. A second downstairs room is similarly decorated with bike wheels and low-hanging bulbs, creating an intimate and laid-back atmosphere. Sunday brunch at Cinnamon Soho is a chilled-out affair, with a few couples dotting the tables and a soundtrack of chilled house murmuring in the background.
Food & Drink
Indian food may not be the first thing that jumps to mind when you think of brunch, but Cinnamon Soho’s offering should change that. We started off with parathas, warm flat breads that have been around since the 12th century. The Keema (£5.75) came stuffed with smoky spiced lamb and an added fried egg (£1) along with a completely moreish pomegranate raita and side of butter; if you find yourself in central London in need of a morning pick-up, this should do the trick.
For a heartier helping, we tried one of the Soho Dishes, a range of plates that included classic curries and biryanis as well as Cinnamon’s own recipes. The kerala style boatman haddock curry (£13) was flakey chunks of fish in a spicy and rich tomato sauce and perfect for spooning rice into. Tandoori chicken malai tikka (£11.50) was brilliantly tender and came with more of the sweet pomegranate raita. While naan bread is usually nothing to write home about, the restaurant’s peshwari (£4) version was filled with a candied coconut and had me composing sonnets.
Every good brunch needs coffee to help aid the healing process, and Cinnamon Soho’s cappuccinos (£2.75) are worth a shout out, great towers of perfectly frothed milk plonked on top of a shot of espresso. The restaurant only serves brunch on a Sunday, from 12-5pm, with bottomless prosecco and mimosas (£20) serving as the perfect accompaniment to the heavier food.
Ditch the avocado and hollandaise, brunch has got a delicious Indian twist at Cinnamon Soho. Located so close to Oxford Circus, the venue is worth braving the crowds for, plus with bottomless prosecco, it can only help aid your shopping decisions.