KOKUM Review: Fabulous Indian Dining In East Dulwich From An Ex-Gymkhana Head Chef

While we’ll often stream to Central London for our dining out needs, as it certainly has its fair share of culinary hotspots, we mustn’t overlook the mighty neighbourhood gem. Take KOKUM, for example; the brainchild of Sanjay Gour, who also co-founded Dastaan and Black Salt (and previous head chef at two-Michelin-star Gymkhana, one of London’s very best Indian restaurants), it boasts some serious credentials. Plus, he’s joined by fellow co-founder Simeron Lily Patel (also co-founder of Black Salt), and together they run this local East Dulwich Indian restaurant.

Review Of KOKUM In East Dulwich

There's plenty to choose from on KOKUM's menu.

As you walk in, you’re met with an expansive space that feels modern and minimalist, with little nods to its Indian roots. Think white-painted brick walls, brown leather booths and lantern-style lighting. While the dining room is found at the rear of the venue, the front features a nice bar area where you can sip laid-back drinks, with a sprawling terrace out front for warmer days.

We started with a couple of cocktails – I chose the Pink Peppercorn Old Fashioned (£13), a subtle twist on the classic, mixing pink peppercorn-infused bourbon with cinnamon syrup and cardamom bitters. The Chocolate Orange Negroni (£13) my partner ordered tasted just like a Terry’s chocolate orange, with a strong boozy hit of course, featuring orange peel-infused gin, coffee-infused sweet vermouth, Campari and bitters.

As for starters, the Amritsari fish (£9) called out to us, and I’m glad it did; featuring succulent, sweet white fish in a very light yet crisp batter, it sang with delicate spices and a gentle heat. But I also highly recommend the lamb chop (£12 per piece) – when I exclaimed to the waiter that I’d never seen a lamb chop so huge, he explained that it was ‘the best end of the lamb chop’. Cut from the loin and rib section, this hunk of gorgeous, melt-in-the-mouth meat was juicy and packed full of flavour, elevated by the thick Kashmiri chilli marinade. Be warned though, it has a bit of a kick.

The Amritsari fish (left) and the lamb chops (right).

I can’t say no to a biryani, so we made sure to try their chicken tikka (£18.50) variation. It came topped with the traditional puff pastry crust; we waited in anticipation as the waiter carefully sawed his knife around the casing, flipping it over to reveal glistening golden rice, and as the warm steam drifted towards us we were instantly drawn in by the aromatic spices.

Accompanying this, we ordered the Malvani fish (£16.50), made with generous chunks of sea bass in a mellow coconut sauce alive with coastal spices, and the lamb rogan josh (£17). The braised lamb, bathing in a rich onion, tomato, Kashmiri chilli and fennel gravy, fell apart with ease. I’m thankful we also shared a laccha paratha (£4.50), so that we could mop up every last morsel of those divine sauces.

KOKUM East Dulwich: Overall Thoughts

We had a wonderful time at KOKUM: the service was quick and friendly, the dishes a great balance between classic and innovative, the cocktail list brought fun twists on favourites - and even better for me, it was just a quick bus ride away thanks to its local location. Whether you're looking for high-quality Indian dining or a spot for unique cocktails, believe me when I say that KOKUM is a local gem worth travelling for.