Thai food is absolutely having its moment. There are more and more restaurants across London serving up the spicy, tangy, flavour-packed dishes that put Thailand on the culinary map - from London's (only) Michelin star Thai restaurant AngloThai, to rising Bib Gourmand newbies, like Kruk, and long-standing stalwarts such as Soho's Kiln. But there's a new kid on the block, and it's all about Northern Thailand's iconic soul food - khao-so-i. It's literally in the name.
If you're not familiar with khao-so-i, let me give you the lowdown - it's a comforting, complex dish, featuring a warming and aromatic coconut curry broth and soft egg noodles, topped with crispy noodles. The mix of sweet, sour and spicy flavours, and its variety of textures, has made it an absolute favourite for anyone in the know. And finally, London has a restaurant doing the dish justice. Let me tell you what I thought of my visit to Khao-So-I in Fitzrovia.
DesignMyNight’s Review Of Khao So-I In Fitzrovia
The interiors of Khao-So-I were trendy yet laid-back.
Need To Know:
- Address: 9-10 Market Place, W1W 8AQ
- Area: Fitzrovia
- Cuisine: Thai, specifically khao-so-i
Ambience & We Think Perfect For
- Atmosphere: it had an incredible buzz, with a queue of people going out the door, and a lively chatter from the happy diners in the restaurant. We bagged an exceptional counter seat overlooking the kitchen – which was a well-oiled operation. Quiet but determined, the chefs meticulously stirred and ladled up the aromatic soup, and delicately placed fine slices of wagyu and scallop onto steaming bowls of noodles, with such precision that it was as if their lives depended on it. It was a fun, theatrical experience watching these guys at work – plus with the slick interiors, vibey RnB/hip hop playlist and low lighting, it was chic and trendy.
- Perfect For: date nights, trendy dinners with friends, foodies.
Service & Price
- Service (Out Of 5): ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
- Value For Money (Out Of 5): ⭐⭐⭐⭐
- Cost: around £160 for two with drinks.
Moo ping (pictured left) and wagyu khao-so-i (pictured right).
Menu Highlights
Food: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
- Moon ping (£10) - the two Norfolk pork belly skewers were grilled to beautiful perfection; think tender meat that was soft with mouthwatering, buttery fat, accompanied by a marinated egg yolk on the side to dip in for added richness.
- Wagyu khao-so-i (£31) - the soup had layers upon layers of flavour: sweet, spicy and perfectly balanced. As for the beef, this was luxurious, completely melting in the mouth. I also have to say that the bowls of khao-so-i were deceivingly generous, filled to the brim with the soup, egg noodles that had a delicious bite, and an assortment of sides you could add as you like - including coconut milk if it's too hot, chilli if it's too mild, plus crispy noodles (characteristic of khao-so-i) and herbs.
- Hoi shell khao-so-i (£26) - similar to the wagyu in all aspects except for the meat of course - the torched orkney scallop was expertly cooked, and had been delicately sliced and arranged on top, complete with a sprinkling of roe, which offered a tasty, briny, slightly sweet element to the dish.
- Chai Thai cheesecake (£10) - though the mains certainly weren't overindulgent, they were very rich, so this light, delicate dessert - which had a fluffy, spongy texture that resembled a Basque cheesecake - was a welcome finish to the meal.
Drink: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
- Nimman 75 (£14) - with a name that combines Chiang Mai's trendiest neighbourhood, Nimman, and the classic cocktail French 75, this clear, elegant, endlessly sippable cocktail was a true delight. It mixed Sapling gin with Champagne and a hint of basil, served in a classy coupe, with the added surprise of little pearls of lychee at the bottom that oozed with the sweet, delicate flavour as they popped in your mouth.
- Lanna Old Fashioned (£14) - another excellent twist on a classic. Previously, the Lanna Kingdom centred in Chiang Mai, but also covered parts of other countries, such as Southern China. This combination of cultures is showcased in the choice of flavours here, as the cocktail mixed SangSom (a popular Thai rum-like spirit) with Szechuan and jasmine. The result? A light, floral take on the usually strong, heady classic - I'll have another, please.
- Kampal Kollective, Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal, Austria (£11 per 175ml glass) - we had a couple of different wines by the glass, and each of them were superb and clearly carefully chosen to pair with the spicy, rich dishes flying out of the kitchen. This particular bottle was a beauty: fresh and crisp with delicate peach aromas.
Pla som (cured sea bream, pictured left) and the desserts and wine (pictured right).
Our Overall Experience At Khao-So-I
DesignMyNight Review Out Of 5: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
I honestly thought Khai-So-I was exceptional. From start to finish, we had a fantastic time - the atmosphere was perfect for a fun Friday night in town, with lots of couples around us clearly having a great time, and the lively open kitchen just adding to the atmosphere. So much thought, care and expertise has clearly gone into the restaurant, from the absolutely delicious khao-so-i, to the complementary cocktails, wine lists and dessert. I'll definitely be back.
