With its restaurant scene moving further and further away from ground level, London has a lot to offer in the way of rooftop spots. People are raising their standards… literally, which has led to us favouring impressive views over many other factors. Lucky for those visiting 14 Hills, they won’t have to compromise on quality to secure that Instagram-worthy backdrop. Known for its collection of high-end establishments, such as famed celeb hangout Bluebird in Chelsea and the Michelin-starred Angler, D&D London is sending its reputation soaring to new heights with its leafiest venue.

Our 14 Hills Fenchurch Street review is in - is there more to this place than interiors from an award-winning designer?

The theatrics began with an elevator ride up to the 14th floor of 120 Fenchurch Street in Aldgate; swept away from pavement to paradise as the sliding doors opened to reveal the oasis that lies above. We were led to our table by the window and immediately consumed by in-your-face views courtesy of the all-glass exterior. You can’t help but play a quick game of ‘spot the landmark’ as you take your seat, the most prominent being Tower Bridge with its iconic blue suspension cables.

While the window seats offer an intimate, distraction-free setting for couples who love to be in their bubble, they did seem quite segregated from the main dining area. It’s a nice idea to have tables so close to the restaurant’s border, but I found myself longing to be amid the garden-themed decor that the venue has become famous for. You basically have to choose between up-close views and the interiors, as one appears to come at the expense of the other. But let’s face it, neither is a bad option. 

I suppose you’d expect a little more from an eatery nicknamed ‘the forest in the sky’, but from what I could see by sneaking a peek at the dining space’s most dressed-up section, the interiors do live up to the hype. Award-winning designer Robert Angell certainly made his mark with a canopy of evergreen plants, shrubbery, perennial vines engulfing the pergolas and an enchanting potted tree as the centrepiece. There are large tables for celebrations, cosy booths for date nights and private window seating for cocktail catch ups-cum-photoshoots – with dim lighting making any type of 14 Hills booking feel like a special occasion.

The perfect drink to match the perfect meal? Leave it to the expert mixologists and sommeliers. 

The 360° oval bar - also adorned with foliage - slings out select signature cocktails that fit the jungle theme. However, we were more in the mood for wine, and luckily there were plenty to choose from. The extensive award-winning selection included bottles from across the globe. We went for the house white to put their standards to the test: a delightful Marlborough sauvignon blanc (£48) from New Zealand that didn’t disappoint. There were also sommeliers on hand to help you navigate the menu and make the right choice depending on your tastes and what food you’re planning on pairing it with.

Many dishes from the modern British 14 Hills menu caught our eye, especially those that had some French flair. Some warm sourdough bread and salted French butter got things off to a solid start, and we decided to pair it with the Yorkshire venison tartare (£18). This can easily be split between two – the question is whether you’ll want to share it. The diced meat was chunky enough to achieve a satisfying bite, but fine enough for that smoked buttermilk dressing to really penetrate the dish. Although going for a fish course may have been wise after such a carnivorous starter, we couldn’t resist the chicken Kyiv (£29) and Suffolk orchard pork belly (£34).  

A menu championing the best British meat and fish, dished up French-style? You can't go wrong.

We exchanged forkfuls of our dishes, as both looked too good to ignore – but if we’re talking about which one was placed in front of me, I technically had the pork. The meat was sizable, towering over the truffled purée potatoes, black pudding and Brussel sprout tops, drizzled with red wine sauce. There wasn’t much need for the knife, as the pork belly fell apart with minimal effort. All the components had depth, making for an indulgent bite every time. 

The chicken also came in the form of a satisfyingly large slab. There was enough garlic and truffle butter to add moistness without turning the breading soggy. It was paired with mushroom ragu and confit garlic sauce to further complement the earthy flavours. We ended with a salted caramel parfait (£10), where the vanilla ganache and whisky cream were oh-so silky to complement the crunch of the toffee popcorn.

The DesignMyNight Digest

While it's easy for sky-high restaurants to let the views do all the hard work, our 14 Hills London review proves that this place has never let its prime location lead to complacency. You can see the effort put into all other aspects, causing it to now be known for its interiors rather than its cityscape backdrop. The wow-factor jungle decor is elegantly done, incorporating ribbons of colour that would be a welcome addition to anyone’s Instagram grid. The menu showcases the best in British produce through a refined menu of crafted dishes - and although the prices are higher than your average meal out, they seem justified when you take the whole experience into consideration.

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