Brunch In The Secret Jungle Hidden 14 Floors Above The City

Published . By Isobel Watkins.

The team behind 14 Hills appear to have taken the phrase ‘urban jungle’ and ran with it. Decked out with more than 100 trees, and many more philodendrons, alocasia palms and seasonal climbers, this place feels more like a tropical rainforest than a swanky London eatery. Located 14 floors above Fenchurch Street and its smartly dressed pavement pounders, even the air feels a little cleaner in this sky-high forest.

Always in search of some top-notch nosh (along with some decent air quality), I headed along to try out their brand new ‘Sax and The City’ brunch offering. Promising live music, stunning views and a French-inspired menu, it sounded like the stuff of snoozy Saturday dreams, and the kind of situation that Carrie would definitely approve of.

14 Hills

An oasis of calm hidden high above the streets.

Ascending the space age-style elevator, the first thing that hits you (after the glorious smell of fresh flowers) is the gobsmacking views of the city beyond. Feeling jammy having nabbed a spot right next to the floor to ceiling windows, we were suitably awed by the view, which stretched right over to the Shard and the sprawling cityscape surrounding. I may have even found myself getting ever so slightly misty-eyed as I remembered why I moved to this smoggy ol’ beast two years ago... and that was before my first glass of wine.

The weekend menu here is divided up into brunch dishes (think eggs benny, fluffy french toast and avo offerings galore), and then a la carte classics. Having worked up quite the appetite battling the Northern Line we opted for a three-course feast, kicking things off with a round of fishy starters. For me? The Yellow Fin tuna tartare (£15) and for my dining partner, the Loch Duart salmon gravlax (£12). Sat atop a pool of chickpea and harissa yoghurt, the delicate chunks of tuna were lightly seasoned and garnished with coriander. Surprisingly hearty, the meaty chunks of fish soon made a dent on my stomach grumblings, and I eagerly wiped the plate clean with the leftover sesame crackers. 

14 Hills

French-inspired cuisine created using the highest-quality local produce.

Being assigned our own personal sommelier for our visit, we were told that the wines on offer aim to promote sustainability, championing female winemakers in particular. With that in mind, I was offered a glass of the Domaine De La Motte Chablis (£45 for a bottle), a rounded sip with notes of citrus and crisp apples - it paired beautifully with my seafood starter and was incredibly drinkable.

Carrying on the seafood theme, I next ordered the halibut (£30), a masterclass in simplicity, it was served with a seaweed beurre blanc and a sprinkling of smoked dried tomatoes which perfectly complemented the gentle favours of the white fish. Following the advice of our server we also opted to share a couple of sides - the tarragon-infused green beans and quite possibly the creamiest mousseline of all time (both £4.50).

14 Hills

A central golden bar draws the eye across the elegant dining room.

Ready to pop, but not quite ready to surrender my chilled rice pudding (£6.50), shot me back to the super sweet desserts of my childhood, and topped with a tangy clementine jam, may even have beat my mum’s version (don't worry, she doesn’t read these reviews). 

The DesignMyNight Digest

With killer views, a live saxophonist and some stonkingly good food, I can happily envisage the Sex And The City gang gossiping over a cosmo at this sky-high spot. From the Insta-ready interiors to the personal sommelier service, every inch of the place oozes luxury, and I for one, fell head over hills for its charm

Looking for more sky-high spots? Check out our guide to the best London brunches with a view here.