Fire & Wine By Boxcar Review: Fired-Up Sunday Roasts For Cosy Afternoons In Marylebone

On a particularly drizzly Sunday, I headed to Fire & Wine by Boxcar, nestled in upmarket Marylebone on the ever-trendy New Quebec Street. After seeking refuge under the restaurant’s patio awning, I collapsed my sodden umbrella and shed off my waterlogged layers, stepping into a cosy, intimate retreat that instantly warmed me to my core – made all the inviting by the alluring smell of their Sunday roasts wafting through the air. They’ve put their own Mediterranean spin on these (thanks to Greek head chef Zisis Gkalmpenis, previously of Michelin-starred Pied à Terre and CORD by Le Cordon Bleu), using an open-fire grill, dishes designed for sharing, and low-intervention wines. I couldn't wait to try them out.

The natural-inspired aesthetic of Fire & Wine by Boxcar creates a chic yet cosy atmosphere.

Review Of Fire & Wine By Boxcar's Sunday Roast

The restaurant gave off a very cool, industrial-chic vibe, with brushed copper tables, roughed-up brick walls and raw wooden accents paired with elegant banquette seating around the front window (which was perfect for people watching, and feeling all the more cosy as big droplets cascaded down them) and burnt orange velvet cushions. I loved the natural tones and warm, ambient lighting throughout, not to mention the relaxing lo-fi playlist humming in the background.

As we perused the menu, we sipped our signature cocktails; my Little Pickle (£6) offered a great start to the afternoon, made with vodka that had been infused with dill for 24 hours and house brine that brought a delicious salinity, garnished with a little cornichon. My brother went for the delicate and easy-drinking Mona Lisa (£12), a smoky, sweet concoction featuring mezcal, marmalade and jalapeno.

Scallops and pressed rabbit starters (left) and the red Suffolk pork belly (right).

Our first starter to arrive, the pressed rabbit (£12), was almost like a terrine, showcasing gorgeously gamey, tender meat with a mild aniseed aftertaste, drizzled in a sweet sauce that balanced the moreish earthy flavour of the rabbit. We dipped this happily into the accompanying rich and slightly sweet grape mustard that paired with it oh-so-well. We also devoured the scallops (£19), which had been grilled, diced up and served in a bisque-like Chartreuse sauce.

Now, for the roasts. The 32-day-aged picanha (£35), I have to say, was absolute heaven - it was beautifully aged with a rich beefy flavour, while perfectly rare and succulent in the middle, in a pool of classic espagnole sauce that brought the whole dish together. We also ordered the red Suffolk pork belly (£32); the three hunks of lean pork (it seemed all the fat had been rendered off) with a strong chargrilled flavour, paired with a bone jus, were enjoyable; however, I do think I like my pork belly with a bit more fat on. I loved the unique addition of grilled hispi cabbage and parsnips as the veg, they made the dish feel light and almost summery.

The agria potatoes topped with sea salt and pecorino were a tad disappointing – they were a bit cold and tasted like they’d been out a while, but the meat, especially the fantastic beef, more than made up for this. We also loved the touch of the freshly fired-up bread, which we used to mop up all the lovely sauces at the end. I highly recommend ordering a glass of the Chateau Lamothe-Bouscaut, Pessac-Leognan (£13.50 a glass) to pair - the dark berries and smoky oak notes complemented the fired-up dishes.

The picanha roast (left) and the agria potatoes (right).

We finished off the meal with their two desserts: the almost classic tart tatin (£7) was a vegan pud that showcased compressed apples with a subtle sweet tang, topped with a rectangle of crisp pastry and a piping of fluffy cream. However, the standout was surprisingly the simple-sounding pineapple with yoghurt and olive oil (£8). It was honestly divine – chargrilled chunks of tongue-tinglingly sweet pineapple sat on a cloud of thick yoghurt, elevated with a drizzle of olive oil that added a little indulgence, and a sprinkling of zingy lime zest. 

Fire & Wine By Boxcar: Overall Thoughts

The perfect setting for a Sunday roast is somewhere that's warm, cosy and laid-back, and Fire & Wine by Boxcar hits that on the nose, while also being effortlessly cool. It's clear that the restaurant is produce-led and that the chefs have a strong passion for championing simple yet high-quality ingredients; the dishes were delicious, comforting and well thought-out. And though it's not a traditional roast, I like that - it offers something different to your usual piled-high plates at pubs (although don't get me wrong, I love these too). If you're looking for a roast that showcases quality ingredients and some seriously good fire-grilled beef, I suggest you give Fire & Wine by Boxcar a visit.