Our Review Of Lina Stores And Bar Lina In Canary Wharf: Painting The Business District Pistachio Green

While it can sometimes take only two or three stores to call you a chain, it seems like the beloved pasta restaurant, deli and now bar, Lina Stores, is following in the footsteps of Pizza Pilgrims with its city domination, as it brings its Pistachio green-coloured walls to Canary Wharf.

This new opening marks the tenth Lina Stores in the UK, (the first delicatessen opened in 1944 on Soho’s Brewer Street, and nowadays you’ll find it simultaneously focusing on Italian produce, while operating as a speakeasy-cum-aperitivo bar). Even Bill Nighy has been spotted outside mulling over life with an espresso.

The restaurant featured arched, metallic ceilings and various shades of green, including pistachio.

DesignMyNight’s Review Of Lina Stores And Bar Lina In Canary Wharf

Navigating my way through the concrete jungle of the business district, I was excited to see what the Canary Wharf branch had to offer. I must confess this was not my first trip to a Lina Stores: I’ve enjoyed silky gelato at its Greek Street den, wolfed down al dente pasta at the King’s Cross, the City, Shoreditch and Marylebone restaurants, and been on a third date in its Brewer Street bar.

As I type this out, I realise I may come across as a Lina Stores ambassador; however, that’s far from the case. One thing this restaurant does well is quality Italian dishes at affordable prices in very aesthetic surroundings, which makes for an easy pick when meeting up with friends. I promise.

My partner and I were met with the white and trademark pistachio green coloured walls we’d come to expect, but this time in a much darker environment. As the Crossrail Place building it was located in lacked windows, natural light was few and far between. I embraced this moody experience and enjoyed the candle-lit tables even though it was broad daylight outside.

Before we made a start on our appetisers and picked our mains, I enjoyed a non-alcoholic Lina Aperitivo spritz (£7.50), featuring orange, grapefruit and herbal bitter notes, which was incredibly refreshing and tasted like summer in a drink, while my partner opted for the classic Lina Stores negroni (£11) which went down smoothly, lacking a noticeable burn and tasting sweeter than expected.

I couldn’t resist gobbling a couple of juicy, green Bella di Cerignola olives (£4) before eagerly diving into the fried artichokes (£9.50) with aioli and salsa verde. I felt as though the portion was a little small, as we were only given three medium flowers; however, the garlicy sauce and tangy salsa mopped up with the crispy, battered skin of the vegetable was a flavour combination to die for.

Even the cutlery was good-looking, and the colours of the dishes themselves were vibrant. 

The tuna crudo (£12.50) with capers, pink peppercorns, salsa verde, and lemon made for a bright contrast to the former starter, and was deliciously zesty and tart. This was my boyfriend's favourite, as the grilled prawns (£13) with tomato, garlic and lemon scared him a little, considering you had to rip their heads and tails off yourself, and he wasn’t used to that. When we eventually got to the fluffy prawn meat, it was delicious, but again, I wish there was more of it.

For mains we shared a brilliant creation: burrata ravioli (£12.50) with Datterini tomato, pine nuts and basil. This arrived as two large cutouts of pasta stuffed with cheese that oozed as we cut into it, drizzled in a rich, herby tomato sauce. These chunky squares were the food equivalent of a Simba pillow, the way they were so spongy and light.

We also twirled our forks around lemony strands of crab linguine (£16.50) with Amalfi lemon, chilli and garlic. This was subtly sweet and flaky, and very moreish. I appreciated the amount of crab meat here and the fact that it was not too overpowering nor dry, as it can sometimes be.

As per usual, we had to tap into our second stomach for dessert, which was tiramisu (£7). I enjoyed Lina Stores' offering of the Italian dish as I found the lady fingers to be soaked in just the right amount of coffee, and the mascarpone was whipped as light as angel wings - the scattering of cocoa powder wasn’t too much either.

Our evening was far from done as we ventured downstairs to Bar Lina for a couple of drinks. Here, like upstairs, the menu was written entirely in Italian, and the decor and ambience were a nod to Italian bar culture. The split-level room featured its signature dark crimson velvet chairs and walls, (similar to other locations), marbled tables and draping curtains. It was interesting to see how such a flirty spot worked in a non-romantic location (no offence, Canary Wharf), but the interiors seemed to make it work.

Due to the fire alarm incident, we got an early preview of the river-facing terrace (pictured right). 

Before my partner and I were able to take a sip of our drinks, thoughtfully and carefully made by a very attentive bartender, I must add, the fire alarm went off and we were all ushered outside (‘a preview of the terrace that’s opening soon,’ he joked). It was a sunny day, so I didn’t mind, and I got to try my punchy Nudo E Famoso (£11.50), made with Grappa Nonino Tradizione, Amaro Santoni, Strega and lime, while pointing out planes landing at London City Airport.

My drink was short and sharp, delivering a kick with each taste, which I loved. My partner's Dopo Le 8pm (£14) was made with coconut campari, cocoa nibs karmiria, Altamura vodka and peppermint, the latter of which is a flavour that’s hard to get right in drinks, but was perfectly subtle and delicious here.

Once we were back inside, I finished things off with a spritz. the Mambo Italiano (£13.50) was a tall drink with an uplifting rosemary and honey-infused Campari, which I gently got notes of, before swimming in a fruity sea of grapefruit and prosecco. I also sipped my partner’s Caffe (£12.50), made up of Vecchia Romagna, Amaro Montenegro, cold brew coffee, honey and cardamom syrup, and salted and unsalted butter. I would’ve had no idea it contained two types of butter, and it was a delightful, sweet, caffeine-infused pick-me-up to end the night.

Overall: Lina Stores And Bar Lina In Canary Wharf

If you’re looking for a restaurant where pasta doesn’t have to be the main course to be the star of the show, then Lina Stores Canary Wharf is for you. The location makes for a smart place to eat after work, or meet a date to get dinner and drinks done all in one, without having to wander around aimlessly after dinner, looking for a bar. I’m curious to see what Lina Stores does next, and I have no doubt there are more bars and restaurants on the horizon.

For more, check out our guide to romantic Italian restaurants in London.