We're helping you get to know some of the biggest disruptors in London food and drink, from the rogue chefs and the tastemakers to the trendsetters and the hospitality history redefiners. This time around, we caught up with head chef of Sky Garden restaurant, Fenchurch, as he tells us more about the impact his heritage has had on his cooking style and advice for new chefs in the industry.
Photo: Kerth Gumbs.
Tell us who you are and what you do.
My name is Kerth Gumbs Head Chef of Fenchurch Restaurant. I was born and raised in Anguilla, a tiny but beautiful island in the Caribbean with 33 beaches. I moved to London in 2004 to pursue my culinary career.
Tell us more about Fenchurch, and why people should visit.
Fenchurch is a restaurant located on the 37th floor of the Walk-Talkie building in the heart of the city at Sky Garden. We offer a unique blend of cuisine, creating dishes inspired by my Caribbean heritage, forged through modern techniques while using British produce. From our lunch set-menu to nine-course tasting menu and casual counter dining, there is an experience for everyone to enjoy in the sky.
If anyone is ordering just dish from Fenchurch, which is it and why?
Start with the jerk salmon ceviche, served with green mango, mixed roes, and plantain chips, and finish with my signature dessert, Le Ducanna Cake. Inspired by a dish I grew up eating called Conkie Dumpling, it is made primarily of sweet potato and coconut, infused with warm spices.
If you’re heading anywhere after a shift at Fenchurch, where are you going and why?
Most of the time straight home to rest. Should I end up popping out, it would probably be somewhere with good music & cocktails so I may shake a leg & decompress…dancing is my zen place.
What are your thoughts on the London restaurant scene at the moment?
London is forever evolving and welcoming new dining concepts with interesting takes on cuisines which what makes it appealing to me, however there's a serious staffing crisis.
Image: Fenchurch.
How does your Caribbean heritage impact the way you cook and what inspires you the most?
When most people think about the Caribbean, they imagine vibrant and tropical views. Without even trying to resemble this viewpoint, my style of food is vibrant and culturally appetising. My culinary training was done overseas, so most of what I’ve learnt or know was the opposite to where I come from, so now I find it refreshing to infuse my background with the modern applications, not to be authentic but rather to build on my influences to create something new and interesting. In many ways, I’ve got to always think back on my heritage to look forward.
My inspiration is gained through various forms, but mostly my competitive nature to become better. My childhood was very rough, and when I started cooking, I never had any safety nets. Failing was a dreadful thought, so I had to dig deep to persevere and find the inspiration to survive.
The location for Fenchurch is iconic and in a high foot traffic location for London visitors, do you think this impacts the way you approach your food?
As a Head Chef, you can create and cook dishes that you want, to a certain extent. However, you must also consider three things: the strengths/weakness of your team, kitchen logistics and the expected flow of guests. To ensure your food reaches the customer as intended, you must sometimes simplify or choose alternative techniques. For example, swapping from a vegetable ice cream on a starter to a vegetable foam (as it will hold longer and isn’t temperature sensitive).
Any advice for people aspiring to become a chef, or break into the restaurant industry?
I have a few pieces of advice:
- If it isn’t hard, maybe it isn’t worth it — strength is often built through challenge.
- Accidents often stem from the weakness of those around you.
- Surround yourself with the right people and fully immerse yourself in your first role.
- Patience and ambition, combined with humility, pave the way forward.
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