We're helping you get to know some of the biggest disruptors in London food and drink, from the rogue chefs and the tastemakers to the trendsetters and the hospitality history redefiners. This month, we speak to Graham Chatham at Origin City in Smithfield, a restaurant known for its approach to British ingredients, and sourcing meat right.
Photo: Chef Graham Chatham.
Tell us who you are and what you do.
I am Graham Chatham, the Chef-Patron at Origin City. We are a family-owned business, and I work directly with the family to oversee the restaurant, sister wine bar, and upcoming Farm Shop, all in London’s Smithfield.
Tell us more about Origin City, and why people should visit.
We authentically practice whole animal butchery and no waste, nose-to-tail cooking, with all of our meat sourced from our family farm in Scotland. This really is no small feat, with every aspect carefully considered and made in-house at the restaurant. This means that for every single dish we serve, there has been weeks of planning and a huge amount of work and dedication.
How would you explain farm-to-fork dining to someone who has never tried it before?
It’s exactly what it says on the tin – our dishes are made using meat from our own farm. This means we have full control of the animal and the supply chain, and as such we know with absolute certainty that they have been raised and cared for impeccably. This visibility and integrity in the supply chain is incredibly rare, and we celebrate this by making sure we use every part of every animal, ensuring no waste.
What are you doing differently in the world of farm-to-fork?
A lot of people only recognise certain cuts of meat, such as a sirloin steak or a rack of lamb. Other cuts for roasting or braising may be familiar. Our farm-to-fork ethos means we need to shine a spotlight on the lesser-known cuts, to ensure that every part of every animal is utilised in an intelligent way. For example, for our beef carpaccio, we were able to use a cut that generally goes for mince and turn it into something much more elegant. The reason we are able to do this is that we are incredibly lucky to have such high-quality meat.
Tell us more about the family traditions you’re bringing to life at Origin City.
In days gone by, people would make their own hams, maybe a simple pate, pickles, chutneys – the list goes on. It’s wonderful being able to bring a bit of that back, and we love nothing more than when guests say a dish takes them back to their childhood. Last summer I made the house chutney for the cheese using apples and tomatoes from my own garden, because I simply had so much.
In a world of growing vegetarianism, what are your thoughts on how that works at a restaurant like Origin City?
We should all be aiming to eat a balanced diet, but when you do choose to eat meat, it is important to make sure that it is of the highest quality, and sustainably and ethically sourced. This is what we deliver at Origin City. Whilst we cannot claim to be a vegetarian’s heaven, we do think we have something very special to offer to the eco-conscious flexitarian.
Simply put, provenance. Excellent husbandry makes for excellent meat. We all know about issues around greenwashing, and unfortunately, this is equally true in the restaurant industry, so do your research and make sure you can trust the provenance of the animal, and the sensitivity with which it has been treated by the chef.
It’s a bit of a cop-out of an answer, but I would say our Sunday Feast – we offer sharing platters of roasted Aberdeen Angus Beef, Texel Lamb, and Black Pig. You wouldn’t usually get to try three different main courses at a restaurant, but our Sunday Feast gives you that opportunity to relax, unwind, and try all three.
Photo: Sunday feast at Origin City.
I look forward to the challenge of being able to bring people simple joy through great food. I’m a bit of a perfectionist, so I enjoy the challenge of consistently delivering on every dish, making sure that everything leaves the pass is of the very highest standard. On top of that, I love getting creative in the kitchen – especially given how led we are by our concept, it can be enormously difficult to come up with new and innovative dishes that utilise every part of the animal, and there is nothing like the satisfaction when you nail it.
If someone wanted to consider becoming a chef, what be 3 of your top tips?
Be realistic – not all of it is fun and there are a lot of mundane jobs: peeling, chopping etc. Cleaning will be 30% of your day. However, the rewards of a professional kitchen can be very gratifying, not only in terms of creativity, but crucially the camaraderie that exists in kitchens is unlike anything else.
If you’re really serious, approach a restaurant that you love and ask if you can work for a few hours a week, to see if it is something you want to pursue.
If you’re heading anywhere after a shift at Origin City, where are you going and why?
In my local neighbourhood, there is an authentic local restaurant which has just opened. They serve some unusual cuts, it’s a family-run business, extremely tasty, and reasonably priced.
Finally, if you could only use one ingredient for all of your dishes for the rest of time, which is it and why?
Good quality sea salt – absolutely essential to bringing out the best in any cooking.
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