Our Review Of Origin's Sunday Roast: Stunning Nose-To-Tail Dining In The City

From the same team behind 56 West Smithfield, an intimate wine bar in Farringdon celebrating independent, small-scale producers, Origin City (which you’ll find just over the road) is all about nose-to-tail dining but with a bit of fine dining flair thrown in - led by Executive Chef Graham Chatham (who's previously worked at the likes of Rules and The Langham).

Though this place had been on my radar since its opening in 2023, it wasn't until one of my foodie friends recently exclaimed it was a 'must-visit' that I finally made the trip - on this occasion, to try their Sunday roast (as DesignMyNight's resident roast expert, I felt it my duty). And you know what? It turns out I've been missing out.

The interiors and atmosphere of Origin City were refined yet warm and relaxed.

DesignMyNight's Review Of Origin City's Sunday Roast

After walking through some of the City’s lovely, historic streets, including the recently closed Smithfield Market, we found Origin on West Smithfield – as it was the weekend, it was a little unsettling just how quiet the area was, considering it would be absolutely bustling on a weekday. But, all nerves were set aside as we entered the restaurant; it had a wonderful atmosphere – warm, laid-back and bistro-y, but with a classy, upmarket air - featuring large windows at the front and well-spaced-out, inviting tables topped with crisp white tablecloths. There were also warm, natural tones throughout (giving an inkling to their pasture-to-plate-style menu), with rugged artwork of buffalo and horses looking over curious clay pieces. It was a unique combo of fine dining and earthy warmth, but it just worked.

Kicking off with a round of cocktails, my partner’s negroni (£14) was a perfectly balanced take on the classic, while my alcohol-free Vics Sunset (£9) looked the part, made with orange, lime, orgeat and lemonade, and was a thirst-quenching delight. In between sips, we slathered moreish complimentary 'nduja butter (which was honestly divine, by the way - I would buy this and eat it every day if I could) onto pillowy soft, perfectly chewy sourdough bread, and perused the food menu.

The beetroot ravioli (left) and the Sunday roast (right) were heavenly.

The starters were simple, but so gorgeous and fresh with a great assortment of textures bringing each ingredient to life; the beetroot ‘ravioli’ (£15) was very creative, showcasing golden yellow and red beetroot stuffed with creamy, tangy goats cheese, shaped like ravioli and topped with crunchy pumpkin seeds. We dipped our forkfuls into the mounds of sweet pickled apple, savouring each delicate bite. We also went for the Black Pig terrine (£17), a generous serving of rich, flavoursome, fatty pork, complementing it with a perfectly sweet quince puree, and an added crunch thanks to a few chicory leaves and a single long crouton.

Now for the roasts. To be quite frank, they were faultless - everything you want in a roast, but with a little extra pizzazz and thought put into them, executed with clear culinary skill. We both decided on the 'Sunday Feast' (£32 each), featuring black Angus beef, Tamworth pork and Texel lamb, served family-style, and we were in heaven. Origin City sources its meat from their own farm in Argyll, Scotland, pasture-raising their heritage breeds using sustainable and organic practices, plus they butcher all their meat in-house. If that isn't impressive enough, wait until you try their meats for yourself - all three were stunning: juicy, tender and with depth of flavour.

You can go for the 'Sunday Feast' (pictured) which is served family-style.

We also loved the little touches, like the roasted flaked almonds on the green beans and the fact that the broccoli had an unctuous char and creamy anchovy dressing. Roasted in beef drippings, the potatoes were epic (I rarely use that word, but needs must), crispy and crunchy yet fluffy on the inside (the best I've ever had even, outside of home of course), and the Yorkshire pudding was a true beauty. I usually drown my food in gravy (inherited that from my Yorkshire mum), but as everything was already so succulent and the gravy so flavourful, you only need a little here. 

The cauliflower cheese was perfect - not too oily, with a crispy, molten layer on top - and they get extra brownie points for including a pig in blanket. We gobbled this feast down paired with a bottle of Johanninger, Wienreich Riesling 2003 (£43) - the acidic German white cut through the fat and was light enough to pair with such a big feast. Despite being filled to the brim, we finished off with a vanilla crème brulee (£10). Creamy and custardy, with that classic crunchy, torched sugar top, it was the perfect end to a fantastic meal. 

Origin City: DesignMyNight's Review

It's safe to say I was suitably impressed by my visit to Origin City. Don't let its location in the middle of the City deter you from heading here on a Sunday - it's well worth the trip into the ghost town for their heavenly roast. It was everything you want in a roast - stunning cuts of meat (that they raise and butcher themselves), perfect roast potatoes and seasonal veg, not to mention gorgeous gravy. So if you're looking for a roast to impress, whether it's a family catch-up, special occasion or date, bring them here, for lovely interiors and very, very good classic British cooking.