It's not hard to see why, only a few months ago, Chef Matthew Price (ex-Michelin-starred Sorrel and The Vineyard) and his wife Jennifer were compelled to take over a Grade II-listed Georgian building in the medieval town of Arundel - which soon became their hyper-seasonal iteration of The Town House.
Dating back to the 1800s, the restaurant's defining feature is its hand-carved, 16th-century Florentine walnut and gilded ceiling that cocoons all 17 covers in grandeur. Shortly after, you realise that the pair run everything entirely themselves, from prep to close. With ambitions like the Prices', this is precisely the sort of passionate obsession needed to pull it off.
The Town House interiors, as reimagined by Matt and Jennifer (pictured left), and our aperitifs to start (right).
DesignMyNight's Review Of The Town House Arundel
Need to know:
- Location: 65 High Street, Arundel, BN18 9AJ
- Nearest station: Arundel, an hour and 30 minutes from Victoria Station
- Cuisine: British - seasonal with a farmed and foraged concept from Sussex suppliers
Ambience & We Think Perfect For
- Atmosphere: as desired by the pair, everything was done with intent, from the autumnal table decor to the luring curve of the glassware - Town House’s atmosphere felt assertive and purposeful, which in turn made me feel as though I were in safe hands. The restaurant's philosophy of ‘home’ was cemented in gold iconography on the table (a nod to Hestia, the Greek Goddess of the hearth), and the walls were painted a forest green - a purposeful call, no doubt, to the brilliant produce nature has to offer, and that Matt has the talent to enhance. I found the music to be an amusing twist; we heard coffee house renditions of contemporary songs reflecting Matt and Jennifer’s passion for music, spanning chipper takes on System Of A Down to soulful Amy Winehouse tracks.
- Perfect for: date night, or a special occasion.
Service & Price
- Service: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
- Value for Money: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
- Cost: £251 for two, excluding service charge.
Fowey mussels (pictured left) and the 'Forest Floor' (right).
Dining Highlights
We had the seven-course tasting menu (£95 each), and there’s an option to upgrade to ten (£140).
Food: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
- Fowey mussels - juicy, sweet, and encased in a cloud of bright Crown Prince espuma, these mussels were packed full of flavour and paired with sea buckthorn and a gorgeous, nutty crunch of scattered praline. It was a delight of a dish - endlessly moreish and a great entry point into the autumnal spread our tastebuds were about to dance through.
- Treacle brioche and sourdough - this was a bread course that had me singing. I love a thick slab of tangy sourdough, and these generous hunks from Matt and Jennifer’s friends at Juniper served as perfect vehicles for the house-cultured butter and deeply earthy slathers of wagyu fat, which I then dunked in langoustine oil for the ultimate smoky bite.
- ‘Forest Floor’ - if this is what a forest floor tastes like, consider me envious of my dog the next time he drags his tongue across the earth. The amount of umami packed into a modest scattering of Acquerello rice - derived from penny bun (an earthy, nutty wild mushroom), black garlic, and truffle - was seriously satisfying.
Sourdough from Juniper, alongside a crumbly, treacly brioche (pictured left) that welcomed the salt of the wagyu fat (right).
- Sussex Fallow deer - this dish completely erased my hesitancy about deer. The meat was remarkably lean, succulent, and perfectly cooked, with a very generous portion size. What took it to an entirely different level was the accompanying venison hotpot: slow-cooked lovingly and topped with an airy, smoked potato that implored us to dig down and scoop up every layer. It was the richest, most tender hotpot you could yearn for on a chilly evening right before sinking into an armchair with thick socks on. To top it off, we dove even deeper into a carb coma with a side of fig and Gorgonzola focaccia, fabulous.
- Autumn squash - I loved how creative this dish was. The squash was the centrepiece, possessing the consistency of a mousse and a subtle sweetness enhanced by preserved blackberry and milk chocolate ice cream. I really adored the buckwheat's nuttiness and the fudge-like medallions of squash. One of my five-a-day? Maybe not. An excellent use of squash? Definitely.
Drinks: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
- Cradle Valley Pinot Gris, East Sussex, England (£15) - produced by the renowned Rathfinny Wine Estate in the South Downs, this cool-climate English white was bright, crisp, and beautifully balanced. There were delicate aromas of ripe pear, green apple, and citrus zest, leading into a palate of fleshy stone fruit, underpinned by a distinct minerality and a refreshing, saline acidity.
- Cradle Valley Pinot Noir Précoce, East Sussex, England (£15) - to accompany the deer, we went for a light-bodied red, showcasing Pinot Noir Précoce, an early-ripening mutation of Pinot Noir ideally suited to cool English terroirs. Brimming with character, it had an inviting nose of wild red berries, ripe cherry, and a subtle touch of sweet spice. On the palate, there were notes of juicy raspberry and red plum layered with gentle earthy undertones, light tannins, and a crisp, clean acidity.
Sussex fallow deer (pictured left), and the autumn squash dessert (right).
My Overall Experience At The Town House Arundel
DesignMyNight Review Out Of 5: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Matt and Jennifer’s The Town House is most definitely onto something special. It is a testament to their knowledge, experience, passion, and professionalism that they aren't visibly running themselves off their feet, but are instead genuinely enthused and excited to watch their dreams become reality. They are deeply rooted in the local area, and their close relationships with local suppliers are what allow each dish to shine - the best working with the best. With an ambitious eight-stage renovation underway, including seven upstairs rooms on the cusp of a makeover, I can’t wait to see how The Town House looks in a year.
