Having previously lived in London, the hype around Lina Stores - a beloved Italian restaurant in Soho dating all the way back to 1944 and now a collection of 10 restaurants scattered across the city - hadn't escaped my notice. But I'd never had a chance to go myself. Between the brand's long history and it being one of the latest restaurant openings, Lina Stores Manchester quickly shot to the top of my must-visit list this Spring. So, how did this restaurant's first location outside of London fare?
Lina Stores Manchester features a gorgeous bar, dining space and deli.
DesignMyNight's Review Of Lina Stores Manchester
When I arrived at the restaurant, I was about to learn one thing: that a visit to a Lina Stores location feels unlike any other Italian restaurant you've been to in the UK. There's a fun, almost retro diner-like feel to the space, with its pale blue-green and deep teal, but without any gaudiness - probably because of the chic vibes in equal measure, where half-velvet, half-leather booths with contrast piping and dark wood throughout bring a sophisticated edge. It was also buzzing on the Thursday night we visited, so it seems the people of Manchester agreed with my sentiments. Great atmosphere noted, we were led to some gorgeous curved seats and quickly began to peruse the menus. Given the recent opening, our server also gave us a brief lowdown on Lina Stores' concept and history - a nice touch, I thought.
With food in mind, we chose our wine: a bottle of Noah Coste della Sesia ‘Rossonoah’ (£47). While I often lean towards Verona's Valpolicella or the Negroamaro and Primitivo grapes of Puglian wine, I fancied a change, and this vino from Italy's most North-Westerly region, Piemonte, hit the spot. The wine list's tasting notes were accurate, with each sip bringing flavours of cherry and spice, alongside a distinct minerality. I'd add a lovely berry flavour to those notes too, as well as the fact it's also surprisingly dry - although not in an unpleasant way. In fact, I found this wine easily drinkable both with or without food, and quite unique; a must-order.
From the walls to the plates, the colour scheme continues throughout Lina Stores.
Pairing beautifully with our wine, the aubergine polpette (£9) was the standout starter for me - so rich that they tasted more akin to ragu balls than the humble yet versatile vegetable, and topped with a tangy San Marzano tomato relish. My partner though, being a sucker for giardiniera, happily tucked into the coppa salume and Sardinian pecorino (£10) plate, topped off by the sharp pickled vegetables and a drizzle of quality olive oil.
We went for pasta for our mains but if we'd been advised that these were proper Italian primi-sized plates, as opposed to the amount you'd want for a main, then we might have chosen differently across our three courses. Alas, the pici with fennel sausage, Calabrian chilli, rosemary and Grana padano (£9) would have been very reasonably priced had it been a touch more than about three mouthfuls on a little side plate; a shame, since the flavour was delicious and I'm sure people would be willing to pay a bit more to get a bigger portion in return. My crab linguine (£16.50) was slightly larger but still small considering the price. Nevertheless, Amalfi lemon, chilli and garlic were perfectly balanced in this dish, avoiding overpowering the very fresh-tasting crab.
Lina Stores Manchester's menu spans everything from antipasti to crab or sausage pasta (pictured), secondi and tiramisu (pictured).
Still eager for more, dessert couldn't be passed up; a generous slice of tiramisu (£7) for him and a large Sicilian cannolo (£6.50) for me. The former was wonderfully creamy with mascarpone, while also featuring a great kick of coffee and Marsala. Though the cocoa on top was a bit heavy to be a nice dusting, so ended up slightly chalky in the mouth - no bother, though, as it was easy enough to scrape the excess off the top. Meanwhile, I scoffed down my sweet ricotta-stuffed cannolo with the vigour it deserved, thanks to its crisp, fried pastry shell and tasty covering of dark chocolate chips on one end and chopped pistachios at the other.
Overall: Lina Stores
The price for some of the pasta at Lina Stores might raise a few more eyebrows in Manchester than it would in London, given the size, and I think portions could be more clearly communicated to customers to avoid disappointment. Nevertheless, our aubergine starter delivered punchy flavour, all ingredients tasted oh-so-fresh, and the restaurant's bustling atmosphere and décor definitely hit the mark. If you're willing to stick to the cheaper pasta dishes and have a meal that's on the lighter side rather than full-on indulgent, then Lina Stores is still a great option for keeping your final bill a reasonable price.
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💰 Price: £105 for a starter, pasta dish and dessert each with a bottle of wine to share, excluding service charge. 📍 Address: St Johns Court, 17 Quay Street, Spinningfields M3 3HN 👌 Perfect for: an Italian meal in a chic setting. ⭐ Need to know: there's a set menu for £49 per person. |
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