It has always been a hallmark of the London dining scene, that just when you think it can’t push itself to any higher level of innovation/absurdity, it flips you a figurative finger and shoots for the moon. Move over immersive supper clubs, take a hike rooftop dining, because London in the Sky has landed on the Greenwich Peninsular and they’re inviting you chow down...On. A. Crane.
Walking into the pop-up's compound feels like a trip through the looking-glass. From the concrete and commotion of Greenwich North, you step into an English garden replete with deck chairs, tall hedges and sun-lounging groups sipping on fizzy cocktails. At the centre of it all is a white picket fence - a cordon for the two small fields where your floating dinner table is being prepared for lift off.
Once strapped into your seats, the London in the Sky flight attendants take over. The tunes blare, the welcome hoots happen and a crane careers you up to 100ft. I’d recommend that longer-haired diners pack an emergency scrunchie because things get pretty windy at this point. With that in mind, I'd also advise keeping a firm hold on your napkin.
We’re here for their Dinner Flight (£149) where the catering comes from the Social Pantry team. Food is prepped at ground level then finished on-high, so we bear witness to the final dressing of our heritage tomato and whipped feta salad. This dish proves the perfect cooler on a balmy June evening, a colourful display of fresh tomatoes sprinkled with black olives and bolstered by sweet, silky slivers of agrodolce red onion.
The table turns slowly throughout the meal, giving you the full panorama from the modern mouldings of The Dome and Canary Wharf, to the far off spikes and spires of the old city vista. Our appreciation of the sights is stolen by the appearance of the main course - a beautifully soft and flaky bit of hake accompanied by a crushed potato cake, fresh veggies and courgette puree. It is with great regret I have to admit that a hake flake did take a dive into the abyss. I can only say to whoever or whatever it may have hit: you should actually be honoured to be touched by such a fine piece of fish.
Dessert turns out to be a zinger as well, with a sizeable sliver of citrus tart appearing in our place settings to bring the three courses to a crowd-pleasing end. And with plates cleared away, you've still got a bit more time to soak up the sunset before your return to Earth.
The DesignMyNight Digest
Cutting a slick silhouette against the skyline, it’s no surprise that London in the Sky has marked itself out as one of the city’s hottest dining experiences. From the views to the dishes, nothing is compromised, and there’s just something about potentially upending your entire plate into the ether that lends food that little extra flavour.