Well, Six By Nico was always going to be spectacular, wasn’t it? A restaurant doesn’t set up in five different destinations if it isn’t a complete rip-roaring success. It might be old news to foodies in Glasgow, Edinburgh, Belfast and Manchester but now Liverpool has been blessed with its own outpost and I’d put a solid bet backing me being the most excited person in the city about it.

I basically headbutted my way through the entrance, eager to get seated at our table for two, stopping only to take a quick snap of the fabulous engraved door handles on the way in. We were shown to our spot (admiring the beautiful tiled floor along the way) right in front of the open kitchen which overlooked the glowing open-plan space.

Hanging filament bulbs; moody hues; an open-kitchen... it's all in the details at Six by Nico.

Inspired by a destination, theme, memory or story, the menu is always a six-course tasting spread, refreshed every six weeks. At the moment, the menu is celebrating everything we know and love about the quintessential British chip shop, aptly titled, 'The Chippie'.

We kickstarted proceedings with the snack box and a prosecco and Earl Grey-laced aperitif, both of which come at an additional cost to the 6-course taster menu (£29 per person). The snack box was filled with fresh sourdough, salted butter, a battered hen’s egg and homemade brown sauce – a delicious homage to the pickled egg with bread ‘n’ butter.

A concept menu, The Chippie reimagines chip shop staples.

Suitably wowed already, we eagerly anticipated our edible journey through the nostalgia of Friday night chippy teas. I won’t spoil the experience for you by detailing each plate, but I’ve got to mention our highlights… First came the chips & cheese – a small salt & vinegar potato croquette scattered with salt & vinegar ‘scraps,’ drizzled with a mild curry oil and surrounded by a foam-like parmesan espuma; so rich and silky that I just had to scrape the bowl. That’s the great thing here; you’re undoubtedly enjoying a fine dining experience, but feel comfortable enough to scrape cheese sauce out of the bowl with your dessert spoon. 

We were also enamoured with the steak pie which combined beef shin with a red wine reduction, burnt onion ketchup and a silky mushroom duxelles. The knife quite literally slipped through the meat, which was perfectly matched to a robust red wine as part of the wine flight pairing (£26 per person).

This deep-fried Mars bar just might be the best dessert in Liverpool.

No review of The Chippie would be complete without waxing lyrical about THAT deep-fried Mars Bar... aka the best dessert I have ever eaten in my life. It's a semi-bitter chocolate mousse surrounded by orange sorbet, aerated orange foam, cocoa nib shards and a molten nugget of deep-fried Mars Bar. Do your mouth a favour and grab this masterpiece while you still can.

The DesignMyNight Digest

A visit to Six By Nico is certainly going to dint your bank balance considerably more than your standard battered sausage and cheesy chips, but it’s worth every single rusty penny. Though, take off the additional wine flight, the snack box or the aperitif and the price tag actually becomes pretty affordable for such premium dining, gorgeous surroundings and flawless hospitality. If you’re looking for something extra special that you won’t be forgetting in a hurry, this is it.

The Chippie menu costs £26 per person and is available until January 5th at Six by Nico Liverpool, 11-15 North John Street, L2 5QY.