Noble Rot Soho

On Greek Street, in the storied former home of The Gay Hussar, Noble Rot Soho wears its history lightly but proudly. This was once the haunt of left-leaning politicians and prime ministers alike - Clement Attlee, Gordon Brown and Tony Blair all dined here - with rumours of clandestine meetings and even bugged dining rooms adding to the lore.

Today, the building’s handsome period features have been carefully restored, while Guardian cartoonist Martin Rowson’s acerbic triptychs nod to both its political past and its more louche present. 

In the kitchen, executive chef Adam Wood and head chef Áron Stigmon, alongside consultant Stephen Harris of The Sportsman, deliver the kind of confident, wine-led cooking that has become Noble Rot’s hallmark. There are subtle references to the site’s Hungarian heritage, but the focus is on generous, deeply satisfying dishes designed to flatter serious bottles - none more so than the roast chicken with morels and vin jaune, a dish spoken about in near-mythic terms.

It’s simple, homely dining at its best, elevated by one of the most thrilling wine lists in town. Upstairs, a private dining room for up to ten guests offers a more discreet setting - once the backdrop for political strategy sessions, now ideal for long lunches and well-lubricated dinners of your own.